The Overgown

After draping a pattern over the corset and panniers I cut the overgown in 2 front pieces and a pleated back piece, with sloped shoulder seams. I cut the pieces out of the gold fabric and cotton lining at the same time.

Before sewing anything I trimmed the front edge in the same manner as the stomacher, with lace, green "leaf" embroidery and pink french knots. Over this I appliqued lace flowers around a vertical serpentine of gold and pink braided trim.

For the inside I cut a fitted bodice that ends at the waistline, which laces up the center back to hold the gown tight to the body, while allowing the back double pleats to hang free.

The overgown is entirely lined with cotton right sides together, up to the waist seam where it was clipped and left raw, based together along the centerfront and neckline to avoid extra bulk when attatching the inner bodice. With the inner bodice stitched to reflect the outter gown they are pinned right sides together and the pleats are pinned *opposite* as they’ll end up when stitched and turned out. I understitched to hold the pleats as flat as possible and graded to reduce bulk.

The sleeves were my biggest challenge- they’re twice as finicky on the half scale and I didn’t manage to get them cut and put in as they should be- they’re round and un-gathered at the head, which I realized once I’d run out of time to fix it, is entirely wrong according to period… It’s all part of the experience though I suppose.

 

I hand stitched on some lace and trim around the neckline and front to accent the skirt embelishment. The stomacher is pinned to the corset and overgown when put on.